Sandalman and the Milkmaid: Visiting Nomadic Friends

A trip to visit three different people – something that would seem to be relatively simple. But things rarely go according to plan here. All three men have moved with their families, chasing what little grass there is left until the short rains come.

On the way to find the first man, we get stuck in a bog. Everywhere is dry, dry, dry and the bogs are a complete surprise.

It takes three hours to dig, get out onto dry land, fall in another bog, dig, get out, fall in another one, scratch our heads, sweat, drink bottles and bottles of water, pray and call friends in Arusha to add their prayers to ours and finally to get clear of the hidden bogs.

As evening draws closer, and it’s obvious that we will have to pitch camp soon, we find where our man is now living. But - his boma is just OVER THERE!

Even our guide can do nothing but squat and look in despair across the gorge. He has never been there on four wheels before!

Only one thing for it, clear the rocks and make a way through. And thankfully by then our hosts have come to meet us and are as determined as we are to get us there.

We pitch camp just as the sun is setting over the Rift Valley Wall in the distance – a sight to refresh us in our weariness. The warm welcome we receive also dispels the frustrations of the journey.

Next day more head scratching after several attempts to climb back up the side of the gorge we had come down the previous evening. More heaving of rocks and the day begins with sweating again...... and an hour later, after more prayer, we make it out.

The second man, when we find his new boma, is not there of course because we have wasted precious time getting out of the gorge. He has already gone off with his cows. At midday we find him and he is delighted to see us. No means of communication with anyone in advance.

The third man has moved too and we have run out of time to find him. We have to build a stone bridge to get to his boma – that we find he has moved from -because water has gone through since we last used this road and made a gully that is just a little bit too deep.