Visiting Nomadic Friends

A trip to visit three different people – something that would seem to be relatively simple. But things rarely go according to plan here. All three men have moved with their families, chasing what little grass there is left until the short rains come.

On the way to find the first man, we get stuck in a bog. Everywhere is dry, dry, dry and the bogs are a complete surprise.



It takes three hours to dig, get out onto dry land, fall in another bog, dig, get out, fall in another one, scratch our heads, sweat, drink bottles and bottles of water, pray and call friends in Arusha to add their prayers to ours and finally to get clear of the hidden bogs.

As evening draws closer, and it’s obvious that we will have to pitch camp soon, we find where our man is now living. But - his boma is just OVER THERE!



Even our guide can do nothing but squat and look in despair across the gorge. He has never been there on four wheels before!



Only one thing for it, clear the rocks and make a way through. And thankfully by then our hosts have come to meet us and are as determined as we are to get us there.



We pitch camp just as the sun is setting over the Rift Valley Wall in the distance – a sight to refresh us in our weariness. The warm welcome we receive also dispels the frustrations of the journey.



Next day more head scratching after several attempts to climb back up the side of the gorge we had come down the previous evening. More heaving of rocks and the day begins with sweating again...... and an hour later, after more prayer, we make it out.



The second man, when we find his new boma, is not there of course because we have wasted precious time getting out of the gorge. He has already gone off with his cows. At midday we find him and he is delighted to see us. No means of communication with anyone in advance.

The third man has moved too and we have run out of time to find him. We have to build a stone bridge to get to his boma – that we find he has moved from -because water has gone through since we last used this road and made a gully that is just a little bit too deep.




By this time, we have a sick baby on board and the road out to the nearest doctor and cold soda is the only way!

The Sieve Effect

We have been desperate for rain, but not without a measure of trepidation as our roof leaks like a sieve. Despite our very best efforts, it has been impossible to bring everything together in time to get the roof done before the rains. We were assured, beyond a SHADOW of doubt that whilst work was going on, even once the rain had started, the roof would be covered every night with lots of tarpaulins and not a DROP would get in.
So what to do? Go on with a leaking roof, or risk replacing it during the rains? We took the risk.



And it poured with rain.........outside........and then it poured with rain.........inside...........and then it poured with rain ..........IN BED! And that was the final straw. There are only so many bowls, buckets and saucepans a woman can keep in her house for a rainy day......or night!

Ears.....and ears.......

In every community, there is the old and the new. Both have their merits in many different ways and both are often at odds with each other.

The Maasai are no different and these two photos seem to epitomize what was and what is to come....



Maasai ears are usually put to good use. This old pill pot is most likely to be carrying snuff.



And these ears.....well they say it all!

Graham's Maasai Father

Ormonderei is Graham’s Maasai father.He has no idea how old he is but he is in the age set above Graham. The process of becoming a member of his clan began with Graham giving him a heifer. Since then he always greets Graham as ‘heifer’ whenever he sees him. Being a part of his clan has meant that all the Cow Project cows can have the Laiser markings on them as well as the ‘G’ stamped on their rump.



We were also given a plot just outside his boma to build our hut on in which the church now meets. As a son of the boma, Graham is expected to give his father presents. In this picture, he is being given a knife that Graham made for him to make up for all the times he has inadvertently arrived empty handed! He is showing him where his name is written on the blade.

Olpul

Warriors are the standing army of their people and must concentrate on building up and maintaining their strength. One of the things they like to do is ‘party’ in their own unique way. This involves a group of men finding a secluded place away from the eyes of women to set up camp for a meat feast to last from several days to several weeks. Traditionally, they would only eat bullocks but nowadays, they might also bring the odd sheep or goat along and men older than the warrior age set like to take part. They may take a few younger boys and girls with them to do the work of collecting fire wood and cooking the soup. They will eat the meat either roasted or as a soup to which they add special tree bark and herbs which aid digestion and increase strength and courage. And there they stay, in seclusion, building strength and comradeship until every animal is eaten.

In this gorge, there were three different age sets in separate olpuls hidden along the dry river bed.

Fire!

Last Saturday night, the flat in our compound caught fire. We were out so the watchmen ran to the nearest neighbour to set off the alarm. From there the women in each boma set off a chain of loud ‘uuueee’ sounds from boma to boma. About 100 neighbours came running in with their buckets and formed a human chain from the pond to put out the fire.



But for them, the whole flat would have burnt out. In fact, no personal items were destroyed, no-one was hurt and we were overwhelmed by the care of our neighbours.

On Tuesday we went to market and bought a bull, 50 kilos of rice, tomatoes and onions, crates and crates of sodas and today we had a feast to say thank you.

A Muslim was invited in to slaughter the animal in order that neighbours of every faith could eat it, and then the Maasai took over.



The men arrived early to keep an eye on the meat!



Several women came in to help with the cooking.



And when the rice and ‘soupu’ (stew) was finished and the thank yous had been said, the roasted meat was brought out for the elders.



It seemed that this was the bit they had all been waiting for!



Everyone left happy, neighbourly relationships were cemented and our dogs are still licking their lips!

Living Water

As I sat listening to a friend speaking about the Living Water out in Maasailand, I looked down at my feet...



which had looked like this two hours earlier when I left home.



Then I looked at the people around me, everyone of them dusty and dirty...



and I wondered how people who live in constant dust would understand the concept of the Living Water, of cleanliness, and what’s more, inner cleanliness that lasts for ever!

The talk was inspired by the morning’s water run – a diverse experience as men, women, children and animals all partook of the same rather brown water.

One washed his clothes with the help of his shoe.... (if you’re wondering what is in his ear, it’s likely to be a film canister carrying his snuff. The large loops in people’s ear lobes are used to carry all sorts of very useful things.)



And then everyone dipped in.........



And finally all the containers had to go back in upright, together with all the women..........for the 6km return trip.



And in the end, after all that, not only did the water inspire the message, but the water containers were then used as the ‘pulpit'!

Celebrating the Cow Project

Last Sunday we celebrated with some of the women who have received cows. We wish that all those of you who have given so generously could have been there too. We had friends with us though and Jenny received necklaces and thanks on your behalf.

Firstly we met under the tree with the church. For many of the women, it was the first time they had ‘sat in church’ and heard someone so clearly speaking from the Bible. It went from Norman in English, to Graham in Swahili to Nosikito in Maa and back again leaving plenty of time for thoughts to be gathered and words to sink in.



Then they all lined up to say thank you.



They sang.....



and danced......



and gave us gifts.



Meanwhile, two women from the local village were preparing a feast under a tree in very windy conditions so the singing and dancing went on...and on.....and on... while the flames under the cooking pots were encouraged to point in the right direction and do their job!



Sadly, we have lost 5 cows who had not re-gained enough strength after the drought to withstand sickness. The project rule is that the women have to present us with the skin that has the G stamped on it, then they go back on the list for a replacement – just once.

This is Simbavo showing us her skin. She was heart broken when it died and did everything she could to save it.

The Road to Work by Plane

There will be no Maasai news for a while as we are travelling until early July. We are very much looking forward to catching up with many of you in person. Watch this space - we'll be back!

Baptisms at Baraka

Last Sunday Graham and Nosikito baptised 6 women in a muddy watering hole near the church at Baraka. Most had never been under water before. The cows, who normally only share it with the goats and sheep, watched from the edge.

Nantosin, ok ready?

Hold your nose and down you go!

Phew!


Ndine - Hold your nose like this

And up she comes........

Hey it was fun!

Esupat - Mmmm, I’m not sure about this...

Oh well!

Not bad after all!



Pendo - Are you sure this is safe?

And it was but.....

now please let me out of here!


An elderly ‘Koko’ called Naramasangwa decided she wanted to be baptised before she dies. Nosikito and Graham guided her carefully in.

Please look after my precious stick.

And in she goes

Thank you so much!

And finally Niye was baptised by Nosikito who has supported her through some very difficult times.